HISTORIC ROUTES : # 1
"The Sorghak goldfields (7060' or 2152 m) are 102 kms away from Kiria eastwards in 3 marches. From Kiria there is a frequented track southwards by Polu, (8430' or 2570 m) and 88 kms away over the Kuenlun range by the Diwan pass to Ghubolik Lake (16,960'or 5171 m) with Sulphur mines –69 kms- and across the Changthang and Chang Chenmo Plains by the Yeshil Kul (16160' or 4927 m), the Tashliak Kul at (16620' or 5067 m) and the Mangtza lakes to Noh, 392 kms, and Rudog 32 kms- Total distance by Noh and Tankse to Leh is 880 kms."
{ from Leh in Ladakh, India to Sinkiang, China when it was a popular trade route in the 19th C. Today it has been replaced by a Kashgar – Karachi Highway.}
LEH to KHOTAN by Ilchi or Yangi Dewan pass :- from an 1897 book called "ROUTES IN JAMMU AND KASHMIR" written by Maj. Genl Le Marquis de Bourbel, also former Chief Engineer of the Jammu & Kashmir State.
Abbreviations:
D.B.- Govt. Dak Bungalow with servants & board.
B- Road Bungalow, rest house or baradiri without servant or board.
F.B.- Forest Bungalow.
C.- Caravan Serai for Native Travellers.
E.- Encamping Ground.
P.O.- Post Offcie.
T.O.- Telegraph Office.
S.- Supplies or russud for an ordinary party of travelers.
G.- Grass for grazing for transport animals.
F.- Firewood or other fuel.
W.- Water for drinking.
M.P.- mountain Pass.
L.- Lake.
T.- Transport coolies, ponies, mules or yaks available for an ordinary party of travelers.
H.- Hot Spring.
No. of Marches |
Stages |
Kms |
Kms |
Nature of Route |
Main Valleys & mountain passes |
River crossing and lakes |
ASL in meters & feet |
Supplies & Transport at Stages |
Remarks |
|
|
Camp to camp |
Total |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Leh
|
…. |
0
|
Road good & passable for laden animals |
Up Indus Valley |
….. |
11350' or 3460 m |
S.F.G.W. & T abundant. |
Large town and fort. Capital of Ladakh. Palace of Gyalpo Raja. Residence of Wazir and British Joint Commissioner. |
1 |
Tikse |
21 |
21 |
" |
|
|
|
" " " |
Vlg & monastery
|
|
|
|
38 |
|
Up Sarkti Valley |
|
|
|
|
2 |
Chimre |
26 |
46 |
|
|
|
|
S.F.G.W. & T moderate |
" |
|
Sarkti |
|
56 |
Very steep ascent from Sarkti to Zingral |
|
|
|
|
Large vilg, well cultivated |
3 |
Zingral |
18 |
64 |
|
|
|
|
S.T. nil, F.G.W. available |
Halting place |
|
|
|
70 |
Ascent to, & descent from, pass easy |
Chang la, down Chang ravine, up Durbug valley |
|
|
|
|
4 |
Durbug |
24 |
88 |
Road on both banks of Durbug river |
|
|
|
S.T.nil, F.G.W. procurable |
Small vlg, well cultivated |
5 |
Tankse |
11 |
99 |
|
|
Cross Durbug river several times |
|
S.F.G.W. & T. plentiful |
Small vlg. Central Store Depot |
|
Muglib |
|
110 |
|
|
|
|
|
Hamlet |
6 |
Sowar or Chiri |
21 |
120 |
|
|
|
|
S.T. nil, F.G.W. available |
Small lake, also known as Chakar (or Chagra?) Talao, no houses |
|
Lukung |
|
136 |
|
Up Loonkur valley |
|
|
|
N Western end of Pangong Tso |
7 |
Chagra |
24 |
144 |
Road good |
|
|
14917' or 4548 m |
S. T. nil, F.G.W. available
|
Shepherd's camp |
|
|
|
155 |
Descent boggy from snow |
Marsimik La |
|
18990' or 5790 m |
|
Pang Lung range |
8 |
Rimdi |
18 |
162 |
|
Across Chang Chen Chenmo valley |
|
|
" F. scarce |
Grazing ground………………… |
9 |
Pamchalam |
22 |
184 |
|
|
|
|
S.T. nil, F.G.W. plentiful |
Ditto |
10 |
Kiam |
19 |
203 |
On the left bank of the Chang Chenmo river. Road level |
|
Hot Spring -179°F, sulphur & soda. Cross Chang chnmo river several times |
17045' or 5197 m |
" " " |
" |
11 |
Lumkang |
29 |
232 |
On rt. Banl of chang Chenmo |
Up ravine |
Ford Changchenmo |
17501' or 5336 m |
S.T. nil, F.G. scarce, W. plentiful |
Halting place |
|
|
|
245 |
Road good and ascent gradual. |
Lum Kang La |
|
19501' or 5945 m |
|
|
12 |
Nischu |
32 |
264 |
Road good |
|
|
17680' or 5390 m |
|
" " |
13 |
Burcha Thang |
29 |
293 |
" |
Lingtzi thang plains |
|
17425' or 5312 m |
S.F.G.T. nil, W. available |
" " |
14 |
Tso thang |
32 |
325 |
Soil covered with 15 cms of saltpetre |
|
|
17024' or 5190 m |
|
Small salt lake |
15 |
Huzak har |
24 |
349 |
Road fair |
|
|
16684' or 5087 |
" |
Small lake, fresh spring |
16 |
Mapothang |
26 |
375 |
|
|
|
15959' or 4866 m |
S.F.G.T. nil, W. brackish |
Small lake, water brackish |
17 |
Yangpa |
40 |
415 |
Soil covered with 23 cms of saltpetre |
Up ravine |
|
15279' or 4658 m |
" W. brackish |
|
|
|
|
427 |
|
Khatai Diwan. Across Kara |
|
17500' or 5335 m |
|
|
18 |
Kara Kash river |
29 |
443 |
Road hence along left bank of Karakash |
Kash valley |
Karakash ford |
15491' or 4723 m |
S.T. nil, F.W. plentiful, G. scarce |
Stone huts |
|
|
|
458 |
river as it flows to Shahidula*.Ascent to pass steep & difficult, much ice, |
|
|
19092' or 5821 m |
" |
Kuenlun Range * where there was an old fort made by the Maharaja of Kashmir enroute to Yarkand. |
19 |
Tash |
30 |
474 |
descent rugged, |
Yangi Diwan. Across Yanga valley. |
Yangpa ford. |
15583' or 4751 m |
" |
Stone huts |
20 |
Kush Lash langar |
21 |
495 |
road steep & bad, passable in |
|
|
15048' or 4588 m |
S.F.G.T. nil, W. available |
" |
|
|
|
|
June, July & August |
|
|
18660' or 5689 m |
|
|
21 |
Brinjga |
35 |
530 |
Road bad, ascent to pass steep over large glacier, descent |
Naian Khan pass |
|
11755' or 3584 m |
S.T. nil, F. scarce, G.W. plentiful |
Grazing ground. Wild senna plant. |
22 |
Kapas |
16 |
546 |
Abrupt over glacier through granite rocks: road rocky & |
Down Yurung kash or Khotan valley |
|
10650' or 3247 m |
S.T. nil, worse grss & reeds, W. plentiful |
Stone hut. |
23 |
Karangotak |
25 |
571 |
dangerous |
Cross spur |
|
8735' or 2663 m |
S.T. nil, F.G.W. moderate |
Village of 500 houses, trees and cultivation. |
|
|
|
582 |
|
|
Khotan ford |
|
|
|
24 |
Pisha |
24 |
595 |
|
|
|
8643' or |
S.T. nil F.G. scarce, W. available |
Village of 20 houses |
25 |
Buia |
16 |
611 |
Ascent & descent of spur very steep, road bad, down rocky bed. |
Up ravine Bisha Diwan. Down Sirisu ravine. |
|
7692' or 2345 m 10400' or 3171 m |
S.T. nil, F. scarce, G.W. plentiful |
Village of 100 houses |
26 |
Yangi langar |
47 |
658 |
Road good |
|
|
5930' or 1808 m |
" |
Village of 30 houses |
27 |
Kumat langar |
8 |
666 |
On rt. bank of Sirisu |
|
|
5790' or 1765 m |
" |
Village of 150 houses |
28 |
Bezilia |
16 |
682 |
Road sandy through well cultivated plain. |
|
|
4678' or 1426 m |
S.F.G.W. & T. plentiful |
Village and bazaar of 1000 houses |
29 |
IlchiB.C.E - |
18 |
700 |
Town on left bank of Khotan river.
Road good through cultivation to Dol Langer, then |
|
Khotan ford difficult |
4320' or 1317 m |
S.F.G.W. & T. abundant |
Capital of Khotan, popln 40,000. Town, fort, large bazaar, country well cultivated. |
|
Yurung Kash |
|
705 |
sandy plain covered jungle |
|
Yurung Kash ford |
4121' or 1256 m |
|
Bazar of 500 shops |
|
Lob |
|
723 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
30 |
Dol Langar |
27 |
750 |
|
|
|
4420' or |
S.T. nil, F.G.W. available |
Village 150 houses |
31 |
Beshtoghrak Langar |
24 |
774 |
|
|
|
|
" |
Halting place |
32 |
ChiraB.C.E.- |
32 |
806 |
TAKLA MAKAN desert 5 kms north |
|
|
4220' or |
S.F.G.W.T plentiful |
Town of 600 houses |
|
|
|
838 |
|
|
Chira ford |
|
|
|
33 |
Karakia |
40 |
846 |
|
|
|
|
S.T. nil, F.G.W. available |
Village of 10 houses |
34 |
KIRIA B.C.E.- |
45 |
891 |
Road sandy until Kiria river, then through cultivations and gardens. |
|
Kiria bridge |
4580' or |
S.F.G.W. and T. ample |
Large town of 7000 houses on right bank of Kiria river. |
Sun, Mar 19, 2006 at 11:20 AM | |
| |
Padam to Lamayuru
From Padam to Lamayuru via Sirsir La:
From Kargil after about 300 kms of driving on the most fabulous road in India reach Padam the same day or better still do it in two. That way the Nun and Kun peaks and the Brahmas across the Pense La and the glaciers by the road can be ogled at leisure.
Padam: At the confluence of the Doda and Tsarap Lingti Chu. Set in a wide plain with extensive views all around of many 6000+ peaks. Several guest houses and electricity till 23.00 hrs. A surprisingly well maintained PWD rest house is also available provided one gets there enough to salaam the PWD engineer if there is no advance reservation. Food in the nearby open air restaurants is better. To the west and high above is an attractive ice cream cone like 6424 ft high peak.
Day #1: Padam to Thongde (halt if U want to C the gompa) (3400 m ?) – 4 hrs- cross the Tsarap Lingti Chu bridge and walk along the right bank. Widish valley. With quite a few green fields and Leh berry bushes and hills rolling up to snow peaks some of which have interesting rock faces. From Thongde is a tough trek up the Sahdi ravine to Phutkal gompa that seems to pour out of a cave.