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HISTORIC ROUTES :   # 1

"The Sorghak goldfields (7060' or 2152 m) are 102 kms away from Kiria eastwards in 3 marches. From Kiria there is a frequented track southwards by Polu, (8430' or 2570 m) and 88 kms away over the Kuenlun range by the Diwan pass to Ghubolik Lake (16,960'or 5171 m) with Sulphur mines –69 kms- and across the Changthang and Chang Chenmo Plains by the Yeshil Kul (16160' or 4927 m), the Tashliak Kul at (16620' or 5067 m) and the Mangtza lakes to Noh, 392 kms, and Rudog 32 kms- Total distance by Noh and Tankse to Leh is 880 kms."

{ from Leh in Ladakh, India to Sinkiang, China when it was a popular trade route in the 19th C. Today it has been replaced by a Kashgar – Karachi Highway.}

 

LEH to KHOTAN   by Ilchi or Yangi Dewan pass :- from an 1897 book called "ROUTES IN JAMMU AND KASHMIR" written by Maj. Genl Le Marquis de Bourbel, also former Chief Engineer of the Jammu & Kashmir State.

Abbreviations:

D.B.- Govt. Dak Bungalow with servants & board.

B- Road Bungalow, rest house or baradiri without servant or board.

F.B.- Forest Bungalow.

C.- Caravan Serai for Native Travellers.

E.- Encamping Ground.

P.O.- Post Offcie.

T.O.- Telegraph Office.

S.- Supplies or russud for an ordinary party of travelers.

G.- Grass for grazing for transport animals.

F.- Firewood or other fuel.

W.- Water for drinking.

M.P.- mountain Pass.

L.- Lake.

T.- Transport coolies, ponies, mules or yaks available for an ordinary party of travelers.

H.- Hot Spring.

 

No. of Marches

Stages

Kms

Kms

Nature of Route

Main Valleys & mountain passes

River crossing and lakes

ASL in meters & feet

Supplies & Transport at Stages

Remarks

 

 

Camp to camp

Total

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leh

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

….

  0

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Road good & passable for laden animals

Up Indus Valley

…..

11350' or 3460 m

S.F.G.W. & T abundant.

Large town and fort. Capital of Ladakh. Palace of Gyalpo Raja. Residence of Wazir and British Joint Commissioner.

1

Tikse

21

21

   "

 

 

 

" " "

Vlg & monastery

 

 

 

 

38

 

Up Sarkti Valley

 

 

 

 

2

Chimre

26

46

 

 

 

 

S.F.G.W. & T moderate

  "

 

Sarkti

 

56

Very steep ascent from Sarkti to Zingral

 

 

 

 

Large vilg, well cultivated

3

Zingral

18

64

 

 

 

 

S.T. nil, F.G.W. available

Halting place

 

 

 

70

Ascent to, & descent from, pass easy

Chang la, down Chang ravine, up Durbug valley

 

 

 

 

4

Durbug

24

88

Road on both banks of Durbug river

 

 

 

S.T.nil, F.G.W. procurable

Small vlg, well cultivated

5

Tankse

11

99

 

 

Cross Durbug river several times

 

S.F.G.W. & T. plentiful

Small vlg. Central Store Depot

 

Muglib

 

110

 

 

 

 

 

Hamlet

6

Sowar or Chiri

21

120

 

 

 

 

S.T. nil, F.G.W. available

Small lake, also known as Chakar (or Chagra?) Talao, no houses

 

Lukung

 

136

 

Up Loonkur valley

 

 

 

N Western end of Pangong Tso

7

Chagra

24

144

Road good

 

 

14917' or 4548 m

S. T. nil, F.G.W. available

 

Shepherd's camp

 

 

 

155

Descent boggy from snow

Marsimik La

 

18990' or 5790 m

 

Pang Lung range

8

Rimdi

18

162

 

Across Chang Chen Chenmo valley

 

 

" F. scarce

Grazing ground…………………

9

Pamchalam

22

184

 

 

 

 

S.T. nil, F.G.W. plentiful

Ditto

10

Kiam

19

203

On the left bank of the Chang Chenmo river.

Road level

 

Hot Spring -179°F, sulphur & soda. Cross Chang chnmo river several times

17045' or 5197 m

"  "  "

  "

11

Lumkang

29

232

On rt. Banl of chang Chenmo

Up ravine

Ford Changchenmo

17501' or 5336 m

S.T. nil, F.G. scarce, W. plentiful

Halting place

 

 

 

245

Road good and ascent gradual.

Lum Kang La

 

19501' or 5945 m

 

 

12

Nischu

32

264

Road good

 

 

17680' or 5390 m

 

"   "

13

Burcha Thang

29

293

    "

Lingtzi thang plains

 

17425' or 5312 m

S.F.G.T. nil, W. available

"   "

14

Tso thang

32

325

Soil covered with 15 cms of saltpetre

 

 

17024' or 5190 m

 

Small salt lake

15

Huzak har

24

349

Road fair

 

 

16684' or 5087

   "

Small lake, fresh spring

16

Mapothang

26

375

 

 

 

15959' or 4866 m

S.F.G.T. nil, W. brackish

Small lake, water brackish

17

Yangpa

40

415

Soil covered with 23 cms of saltpetre

Up ravine

 

15279' or 4658 m

" W. brackish

 

 

 

 

427

 

Khatai Diwan. Across Kara

 

17500' or 5335 m

 

 

18

Kara Kash river

29

443

Road hence along left bank of Karakash

Kash valley

Karakash ford

15491' or 4723 m

S.T. nil, F.W. plentiful, G. scarce

Stone huts

 

 

 

458

river as it flows to Shahidula*.Ascent to pass steep & difficult, much ice,

 

 

19092' or 5821 m

   "

Kuenlun Range

* where there was an old fort made by the Maharaja of Kashmir enroute to Yarkand.

19

Tash

30

474

descent rugged,

Yangi Diwan. Across Yanga valley.

Yangpa ford.

15583' or 4751 m

    "

Stone huts

20

Kush Lash langar

21

495

road steep & bad, passable in

 

 

15048' or 4588 m

S.F.G.T. nil, W. available

   "

 

 

 

 

June, July & August

 

 

18660' or 5689 m

 

 

21

Brinjga

35

530

Road bad, ascent to pass steep over large glacier, descent

Naian Khan pass

 

11755' or 3584 m

S.T. nil, F. scarce, G.W. plentiful

Grazing ground. Wild senna plant.

22

Kapas

16

546

Abrupt over glacier through granite rocks: road rocky &

Down Yurung kash or Khotan valley

 

10650' or 3247 m

S.T. nil, worse grss & reeds, W. plentiful

Stone hut.

23

Karangotak

25

571

dangerous

Cross spur

 

8735' or 2663 m

S.T. nil, F.G.W. moderate

Village of 500 houses, trees and cultivation.

 

 

 

582

 

 

Khotan ford

 

 

 

24

Pisha

24

595

 

 

 

8643' or

S.T. nil F.G. scarce, W. available

Village of 20 houses

25

Buia

16

611

Ascent & descent of spur very steep, road bad, down rocky bed.

Up ravine Bisha Diwan. Down Sirisu ravine.

 

7692' or 2345 m

10400' or 3171 m

S.T. nil, F. scarce, G.W. plentiful

Village of 100 houses

26

Yangi langar

47

658

Road good

 

 

5930' or 1808 m

     "

Village of 30 houses

27

Kumat langar

8

666

On rt. bank of Sirisu

 

 

5790' or 1765 m

     "

Village of 150 houses

28

Bezilia

16

682

Road sandy through well cultivated plain.

 

 

4678' or 1426 m

S.F.G.W. & T. plentiful

Village and bazaar of 1000 houses

29

Ilchi

B.C.E -

18

700

Town on left bank of Khotan river.

 

Road good through cultivation to Dol Langer, then     

 

Khotan ford difficult

4320' or 1317 m

S.F.G.W. & T. abundant

Capital of Khotan, popln 40,000. Town, fort, large bazaar, country well cultivated.

 

Yurung Kash

 

705

sandy plain covered jungle

 

Yurung Kash ford

4121' or 1256 m

 

Bazar of 500 shops

 

Lob

 

723

 

 

 

 

 

 

30

Dol Langar

27

750

 

 

 

4420' or

S.T. nil, F.G.W. available

Village 150 houses

31

Beshtoghrak Langar

24

774

 

 

 

 

    "

Halting place

32

Chira

B.C.E.-

32

806

TAKLA MAKAN desert 5 kms north

 

 

4220' or

S.F.G.W.T plentiful

Town of 600 houses

 

 

 

838

 

 

Chira ford

 

 

 

33

Karakia

40

846

 

 

 

 

S.T. nil, F.G.W. available

Village of 10 houses

34

KIRIA

B.C.E.-

45

891

Road sandy until Kiria river, then through cultivations and gardens.

 

Kiria bridge

4580' or

S.F.G.W. and T. ample

Large town of 7000 houses on right bank of Kiria river.




Sun, Mar 19, 2006 at 11:20 AM

TREKS:

Padam to Lamayuru

From Padam to Lamayuru via Sirsir La: 

 

From Kargil after about 300 kms of  driving on the most fabulous road in India reach Padam the same day or better still do it in two. That way the Nun and Kun peaks and the Brahmas across the Pense La and the glaciers by the road can be ogled at leisure.

 

Padam: At the confluence of the Doda and Tsarap Lingti Chu. Set in a wide plain with extensive views all around of many 6000+ peaks. Several guest houses and electricity till 23.00 hrs.  A surprisingly well maintained PWD rest house is also available provided one gets there enough to salaam the PWD engineer if there is no advance reservation. Food in the nearby open air restaurants is better. To the west and high above is an attractive ice cream cone like 6424 ft high peak.

 

Day #1:   Padam to Thongde (halt if U want to C the gompa) (3400 m ?) – 4 hrs- cross the Tsarap Lingti Chu bridge and walk along the right bank. Widish valley. With quite a few green fields and Leh berry bushes and hills rolling up to snow peaks some of which have interesting rock faces.   From Thongde is a tough trek up the Sahdi ravine to Phutkal gompa that seems to pour out of a cave.